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Mastering the art of hair cutting takes a little practice. But cutting curly hair is an art form all on its own. Curly hair has a different texture, and it faces challenges that straight hair simply does not face. Therefore, there are a few do's and don'ts that stylists should remember. Follow these rules for cutting curly hair to keep your clients happy, and you'll become a master in no time.

Good Shears

Owning a quality pair of hair cutting shears is vital when cutting any type of hair, but especially hair that has curls. The first thing to go for is comfort. You want something that won't fatigue your hand or fingers with frequent use. Next, consider your place in your career. If you're still in school and almost ready to rent your first booth, you'll need to decide on a shear length. Most experts recommend placing a pair of scissors in the palm of your hand, with the eye of the scissors touching the base of your thumb. The tip end of the scissors should fall somewhere within the last section of your middle finger.

Next, you'll need to choose between a beveled or a convex blade. Beveled blades are good for newbies because they're lightweight, and they have micro serrations that keep the hair from sliding down the blade, offering more control. However, beveled blades should not be used with the "slice" technique that's commonly used on curls because the hair tends to get jammed up in the blades. A convex blade is a heavier shear, extremely sharp, and is perfect for the slicing technique mentioned above.

Lastly, choosing a pair of shears with the right handle ultimately comes down to comfort and what feels best in your hands.

Side note: thinning shears should NOT be used on curly hair because unless the client is very skilled with styling hair that's been thinned, it could result in their hair taking on a frizzy appearance. You should also avoid razors, as they can damage curly hair.  

Moisturizer

Curly hair comes out of the scalp at an angle. This makes it difficult for sebum—the scalp's natural moisturizer—to travel down the length of the hair. Applying a quality moisturizer before cutting those strands can make a huge difference. Choose something that is light but that can also be used as a leave-in conditioner, containing ingredients like palm, coconut, or avocado oil.

Damp Hair

Cutting wet hair is perfectly fine for those with naturally straight strands. In fact, it does allow for more control. The problem is that curly hair shrinks as it dries. And the curlier the curls, the more it shrinks. Therefore, it's best to do nothing more than dampen it before hitting it with the shears. Be sure to scrunch it up a little, too, in order to create a more realistic texture. Also, avoid brushing hair while it's wet or damp, as it's extremely friable and breaks much easier than dry hair. Use a wide-tooth comb instead.

The only exception to the "damp" rule is if the hair is in super tight, curly ringlets. With this kind of hair, the individual "chunks" and sections curl in different patterns and lengths. So wetting the hair to straighten it out before cutting may result in an uneven look. Many stylists prefer keeping the hair dry and trimming the ends so that the hair looks even and healthy.

Dusting Technique

If your customer just wants a trim and not a drastic change to their look, go with a "dusting." This involves cutting off less than ¼" of hair. That way, you won't risk removing too much of the length, which happens all too often with curly hair, especially if the client likes to alternate between leaving it curly and straightening it with an iron.

Dusting can be done every few weeks to reduce the likelihood of split ends.

"Straight" Cuts

When tackling straight hair, a lot of stylists will cut at an angle to add layers and depth. But this technique should be avoided on curly hair. That's because cutting at an angle exposes more of the cortex (the middle layer that provides strength and color), which can further damage those strands. Instead, curly hair should be cut straight across the ends.

Frequent Trims

Curly hair is more susceptible to damage and split ends. And the more it breaks, the slower it will grow. Well, technically it doesn't grow any slower, but it does take longer to achieve the desired length. By keeping the hair trimmed frequently before the ends have a chance to split, your client will have long hair faster, and it will look healthier.